Saber, Peaks Cuddling Clouds [Archives:2001/09/Last Page]
Abdul Hakim Hashem
Taiz
The car goes up on an unpaved zigzag road, leading us away from the marvelous city of “al-Halemah,” Taiz. Houses shrink as we go up the mountain and appear like packets of matches. The white clouds shroud the way in front of us like a white tropical carpet.
The passengers in the car seem to have become used to the uneven and bumpy street and to the irritating movements the car makes. Rather, they feel more inclined to chat about many things. In a moment of silence, the driver extends his hand to the cassette recorder, pressing the play button and the eloquent sound of great singer Ayoob Taresh is heard. The passengers are held spellbound, listening in total silence as if they are under a spell. All could not help but express their satisfaction at the good taste of the driver. Their approval was clearly seen on their facial expressions. While listening, one is certain to identify himself with the songs and start looking to the natural scenery and marvelous view of the whole mountain which appears, because of the terrace, to be a flight of stairs. The greenness of the mountain is another picture certain to take you to another world of beauty and peace. Women with their traditional costume working on these terraces or going home is another lovely picture making anyone take notice and survey intently. This is Saber Mountain with all its beauty and wonder. It spreads its arms, embracing the city of Taiz in the most astounding matter. It bestows a holy beauty and quietness on the whole atmosphere. It has a great deal to offer, leading many people to call Taiz “al-Halemah,” meaning the dreaming Saber Mountain, that extends across the southern part of Taiz in a mountain chain.
Since time immemorial, Yemenis have lived on top of mountains, mainly because of their feelings of insecurity and also to enable them to defend themselves from any invasion that might target them. The way they used to build their houses very close to each other is a clear signal of this. Saber mountain is affiliated to the districts of Taiz city. It’s surrounded by al-Hujariah and Jabal Habashi from the other sides. More than 160 thousand residents are living in Saber and are distributed over three districts:
1) Saber al-Mawadem District:
The closest district to Taiz city consisting of 15 villages. It extends from the north east to the north west.
2) Mashra’ah & Hadnan District:
In the middle of the mountain and considered the smallest district in the Republic. It is 8 Km in size.
3) al-Mesrakh District:
Situated in the south west of the mountain.
The highest peak of the mountain is more than 3200m above sea level. It is called al-Arooss peak.
** Man and his Environment:
Yemenis have traditionally adapted themselves to the hardships of mountain life. They could utilize available natural resources in the mountains to survive and obtain their basic needs.
There are many features which distinguish this region including terraces, water basins, houses, traditional costumes, social customs and conventions, weather, agricultural crops, women, etc.
1) Terraces:
In order to harness the potential offered by nature for the benefit of man, the people in Saber made terraces from the bottom of the mountain to the top. They used to bring good soil from other areas to cultivate these terraces. The mountain appears like a flight of stairs, green with many crops.
2) Water Basins:
In the past, water used to be available in large quantities. However, there is a clear decrease in the quantities of water available. Water basins were the only alternative for the people. They were built to store water, to be used in irrigation and in the home. These water basins were about 8-10m deep and 10-20m high and they were well-built to last for a very long time. Water is collected during the whole summer and is stored to be made use of in winter. These water basins are an integral feature of the Saber people.
3) Houses in Saber:
Houses are built from stone and mud. The first floor is used for storing fodder, firewood and for keeping animals. Inside the house the people also dig a hole in the ground called “Madfan” for keeping cereals. Other floors are used for eating, sitting, chewing and sleeping.
4) Costumes of Saber:
Saber is distinguished by the preservation of traditional costumes. Women’s costumes in Saber are very beautiful, consisting of long dresses with loose sleeves and lots of attractive decorations on the front part of the dress. They also wear long trousers with different colors and pretty decorations at the bottom. On their heads they wear long head-covers which are beautified with some roses and tied together. These are called “Mashkur” and are placed near to their ears.
5) Social customs:
Marriage customs in Saber are unique. Festivals last for eight days starting from the day the bride is brought to her husband’s house in the company of lots of people. On the second day all the people of the village come to chew Qat in the bridegroom’s house. They also bring some money as a traditional practice to support the bridegroom. This practice is called “Mujabarah” meaning lending support to him in this situation. On the third day, uncles of the bridegroom come to congratulate him. The fourth day is for the family of the bride. Each family comes on a specific day and in front of each procession are drum beaters and dancers. The remaining days are for women from the village of the bridegroom or from the village of the bride. The celebration is ended by a long ceremony from the morning to the middle of the night for the mother of the bride on the eighth day.
6) Weather in Saber:
Saber mountain enjoys moderate weather throughout the whole year with a remarkable decrease in temperature in winter. The mountain can be divided into three parts:
1) mountain peaks
2) middle region
3) valleys and the mountain bottom.
This biological diversity has created a variety in climate and helped in the growing of many agricultural crops.
Agriculture & Agricultural Crops:
On the peaks of the mountain, root vegetables such as garlic, beans, lentil and fenugreek are grown. In the middle terraces, Qat plants are very much widespread. There are other plants such as corn, maize and vegetables such as pomegranate and oranges, etc. In valleys and at the bottom of the mountain, maize, corn, coffee and Qat are grown. Fruits are also planted including mango and papaya.
Now people complain about a spreading weed that harms other plants. The people say that the seeds of this weed were found in American corn sacks. The people are trying their best to fight it but, so far, to no avail.
Women in Saber:
Woman’s position in Saber is worth noting. Unlike many other women in other areas of Yemen, the woman in Saber appears more open-minded and liberal. The difficult and challenging life of the mountain has made women shoulder a lot of responsibilities. They take care of their houses, help in the cultivation of lands and sometimes they themselves go down to the city of Taiz to sell Qat, fruits, vegetables, etc. It can be safely said that women in Saber are the main bread-winners for their families. 23-24% of the men in Saber are migrants, either locally or abroad.
Another thing to note is that the difficulties of life in the mountain have not restrained people from pursuing education for their children.
To conclude, Saber mountain constitutes a marvelous beauty and wonder that is difficult to describe. It has to be seen and experienced with one’s own eyes and senses.
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