Beni Hushaish: Valley of grapes and raisins [Archives:2003/652/Culture]
By Irena Knehtl
For the Yemen Times
Drive to the north- east from Sana'a for about an hour and the contrast in scenery is amazing. First the Beni Husheish area, up the Wadi Sirr and Rajam where in season there is an abundance of grapes, raisins, but also wheat, barley and millet, all irrigated by well water. Beyond, the landscapes change into mountains and dry waddies The mountains are a testament to some previous geological ages, when they were pushed up, folded and subsequently heavily weathered by wind and water. Further to the east still they give way to a broad plain dotted with volcanic craters and crisscrossed with more dry wadi beds and dirt roads.
You would never believe that the Beni Hushaish valley is actually en route for one of the most famous agricultural areas in antiquity he cold was deep now, the wind was singing, when the sun was high in the sky. The mountains of Sirr and Rajam were drawing themselves up, away from the desolation of their feet. Life here was made out of careful harmony. Stone houses build out of imagination and to be lived in, retain warmth and softness. Thousands of grape clusters were drying on flat roots and nearby grapes gardens.
The Earth. The Water
Dark grape leaves were once again splayed like dropping combs on the monsoon sky. Heaven opened and water hammered down, reviving the reluctant old wells. The grapes gardens looked wet green and pleased. Fine rain from a thick cloud poured down like a summer shower. In a while the rain slowed down to a drizzle and then stopped, the breeze shook off water from the grape trees leaves and for a while it rained only under them. Wet grape leaves shimmered like beaten metal. Countless grape gardens were once more full of delicious fruit, the grapes.
The road rose to meet us. Though you can see the Beni Hushaish valley from any house, it was now covered in a veil of peace and serenity, as if created for them, for their eyes, their limbs and their hearts. Their eyes carry a magic secret for the earth to become what it is , for the oceans to part and for mountains to rise. The grape gardens were silent now. The Beni Hushaish valley full of whisper and small lives fearing for their dreams.
Grapes and Raisins
Our hosts were of very pleasant manner and missed no time to tell us about the valley and the villages. How they belonged to it, it belongs to them the Beni Hushaish valley long, like a long green ribbon. Raisins are pressed upon us, but also almonds and nuts Also fresh grapes, and juice made from raisins. Raisins in all forms, shapes and colors, red white and dark blue or black, small medium or large. Raisins as appetizers and farewell.
Raisins from Beni Hushaish have no respect for political boundaries or other man- made boundaries. From the souks of Sana'a, bazaars of Jeddah and Riyadh, and Dubai, they are there. They star in poetry and stories. Raisins for love, hope, sadness and regrets, and peace. They reveal what words do not. Raisins and grapes in Beni Hushaish are the stuff of life. A day without them is unthinkable. They are part of every day meal day by day, year by year. They have meaning and importance in their lives which has nothing to do with monotony.
During the afternoons visiting begun, confirming once more ties that bind with bonds of trust. Incense burners release fragrant whisper of smoke. Sun is about to burst behind Rajam mountains. Which is there more of, land or the sea is being asked. The sea comes with the reply. No. It is the land, for the sea itself is set upon the land, I am told.
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